A slow visit to a Scottish Book Town

Does it live up to the hype?

Hello, I’m Molly and I write about my slow and simple life in the Scottish Highlands. Please subscribe to support my work and to read more of my stories. You can also find me on YouTube and shop my Etsy Store and sustainable Teemill Clothing.

‘The problem is, if I buy one, I feel as if I should buy the entire series.’

I couldn’t help but smile at her declaration. I was seated only a few metres from this well dressed, and equally well spoken, couple that I’d guess were in their early 60’s. They had the comfortable manner of having been together for a lifetime.

They were also enjoying a pot of tea. The gentle clatter of China teacups, rustle of pages and murmurs of appreciation for the rather delicious cake echoed through the snug room.

Enjoying a delicious vegan fruit scone at ReadingLasses

Like in every other building I had entered in Wigtown, we were surrounded by books. Odd tables and an assortment of plush chairs and sofas were scattered haphazardly through the old building. Almost as if they were an afterthought, with the books being the stars of the show.

I’d booked this trip to Wigtown almost on impulse. I was feeling rather sorry for myself, one Wednesday in May this year, as my period had forced me to retreat to bed. Amongst my YouTube recommendations was a vlogger who had recently visited Wigtown. Curious to learn more, I eagerly watched her adventures and, before the vlog had even finished, I’d booked the Air BnB and have been in eager anticipation ever since.

Wigtown, which is located in Dumfries in Galloway (south-west Scotland), was designated as Scotland’s book town in 1998. Remarkably, given its small size, it houses 20 different bookshops. You can see why I was excited to attend.

I’d timed my visit with their annual book festival, which is a 10-day book bonanza that the town celebrates every autumn. Thousands of book-lovers flock to enjoy this festival, with 29,500 tickets sold in 2019, compared to 1000 in 1999.

Given my custom, I arrived early and parked up around half 8.

The weather was fine, so I spent the first 20 minutes strolling down the sleepy streets. Admiring the old buildings and bookish shop windows. Revelling in the cool autumn breeze and yellowed leaves that rustled past my boots.

As you can imagine, with so many bookshops, it can be difficult to stand out. Yet booksellers in Wigtown make this work. Each shop has its own unique character.

The first one on my list was the aptly named ‘The Bookshop’. This impressive Georgian building stands pride of place in the centre of town and its the largest second hand bookshop in Scotland.

The musty smell of books hit as soon as I entered. My eyes travelled over the towering dusty shelves, worn patterned carpet, half emptied cardboard boxes and, of course, the 100,000 books that were scattered throughout. It was like stepping into a story. This placed just oozed Hogwarts.

Of all the book shops in Wigtown, this one provided the ultimate dark academia experience, offering quirky delights at every turn. It felt like the books had always been there.

Over two mornings I managed to visit every one of the bookshops Wigtown has to offer. I couldn’t pick a firm favourite, but, as a fiction lover, I’d say that Well-read books and The Old Bank bookshop were two of my top contenders.

You can visit my YouTube to enjoy the full video of my trip here.

Given that I tend to find big crowds overwhelming, and I was only in the area for a limited time, I didn’t join many of the festival activities.

However, I did attend one talk by Merryn Glover, a fellow Cairngorm based author. She was talking about her new book, ‘The Hidden Fires’, where she follows Nan Shepard’s footprints in the iconic ‘The Living Mountain’ and describes her own experience of exploring this landscape.

Merryn was beautifully eloquent and clearly passionate about our shared home. I was completely charmed and have added her book to my ever expanding list.

It is understood that designating Wigtown as Scotland’s book town saved it. Before 1998, the town had been in serious decline. One thing that was abundantly clear on my trip, was the sense of pride residents felt for their town.

No matter where I went, whether it be a bookshop, café, or even on a stroll down by the harbour, I was met by friendly faces. There was no gimmick here, rather a genuine love for books and the stories that shape us all.

This will be the first of no doubt many trips to Wigtown. It is a place that truly warms your heart and is just bursting with kindred spirits.

A trip I will never forget.

Until next week,

Molly xx